By Jeff Porter, 2023 International Guest Judge

When I first stepped off the plane and felt the warm wind of Mildura, I wasn’t entirely sure what I was getting myself into. Fresh from a whirlwind week traveling across Victoria, visiting wine estates, and soaking in the landscape, I thought I had a grasp of what was to come. But nothing could have truly prepared me for the journey I was about to embark on once I donned that white judge’s apron and joined a team of esteemed winemakers and journalists. Nervous? Absolutely. But that nervousness quickly melted away, replaced by a sense of joy, excitement, and camaraderie that was palpable in the air. The energy amongst the judges, volunteers, and the entire AAVWS team was infectious, unlike anything I’d felt at any wine competition I’d judged before. I knew then that I was among people who didn’t just love wine—they reveled in the adventure of it, eager to uncover the best that Australia had to offer.

Before being asked to serve as the lone international judge at the 2023 Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show (AAVWS), I was already in the midst of rediscovering Australian wine, thanks in no small part to the dynamic duo, Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross. Their work importing Australian wine to the US and their book, How to Drink Australian: An Essential Modern Wine Book, had already piqued my curiosity. But AAVWS? That experience took my burgeoning interest and sent it into overdrive. From Aglianico to Saperavi, I witnessed firsthand the innovative spirit of Australian winemakers and growers, who aren’t just unafraid to experiment—they excel at it.

With a wine career rooted in Italian varietals, I was astounded to learn that Australia boasts the most hectares of Italian grape varieties outside of Italy itself. It was a revelation, and even more surprising was the sheer quality of the wines I tasted: elegant and focused Nebbiolo, vibrant and crunchy Greco, and a “bunchy” (a term new to me, referring to the use of whole bunches) Aglianico that ultimately earned my International Judge’s Award. The depth and breadth of these stunning wines, spanning varieties and regions across Australia, reignited the giddiness I felt when I first began selling wine over twenty years ago.

The AAVWS isn’t just another wine event; it’s one of the most exhilarating and dynamic wine experiences in the world. I am a better wine professional and, more importantly, a more passionate lover of wine because of it. The memories of this experience linger with me, and I find myself eagerly following the AAVWS, always on the lookout for the bounty of incredible wines that Australia continues to produce. It was both an honor and a joy to be part of something so special, and while I lament that I don’t live in Australia, I would give anything to be a part of AAVWS again.

Huge thanks to Wine Victoria for supporting my visit, to the entire AAVWS board, including Kim Chalmers, for organizing one of the best wine shows in the world, to Head Judge Leanne Altmann for her professionalism, drive, and guidance, and to all the judges—I learned so much, even how to pronounce “no” properly! This truly was the experience of a lifetime.