By Ed Merrison, Vininspo

With curiosity, talent and infectious energy, this exceptional community creates and unearths deep, diverse excitement for wine-lovers. Here are just a few wines to check out from this year’s show.

“Why would you do it, if you’re not looking for the joy?” This was a question Helen Healy asked as she made her final speech as manager of the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show before stepping down. It’s a question we might all ask ourselves as we gird ourselves to keep going—remembering to keep seeking and sharing the joy in what we do.

It is the challenge a Buddhist nun put to Mildura Rural City Council deputy mayor Helen as she navigated a relentless schedule of advocacy for arts, culture, climate, agriculture, First Nations people, and so much more. Seeking joy has sustained her through 25 years as chief cheerleader and mobiliser at AAVWS, and it’s been passed on to everyone who’s come into contact with this movement.

Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast writer-at-large and 2023 international judge at AAVWS, is fond of that old Field of Dreams adage, “If you build it, they will come.” I am, too. Even if the cynics are right, and this is only a dreamer’s perspective, AAVWS is not just a dream.

The 2025 show, which took place in early November, featured 789 entries from 211 exhibitors in 69 regions. This competition, which has blossomed from a seed planted in the lee of tens of thousands of hectares of mainstream French vine varieties, featured 98 different “alternative” wine grapes this year.

The numbers attest that this is very real—as real as the climate change that requires us to rethink what can grow here. As real as the need to farm better to ensure we strengthen the environment. And as real as the need for growers to find a profitable audience for their produce.

I have been fortunate to judge at AAVWS on three occasions, and there is one thing I know for sure. It is something that Helen Healy and the committee members have shown me, and something that judges and exhibitors learn and pass on to others. That lesson is this: When we think of that thing we build as a community, when we lead that community by example, when we don’t let anything dim our imagination, and when we are unstintingly kind, positive and determined to succeed together, that thing can become astonishing.

[Wine show & tell] AAVWS

The AAVWS tagline is “more than just a wine show”, which it is, in every sense. The week entails various inclusive, discursive activities: an evening repast shared by judges and stewards; a dinner featuring a mix of public, judges, exhibitors, sponsors, and organisers; a superb Talk & Taste afternoon of panel discussions; the Exhibitors’ Tasting; and an awards Long Lunch that is a genuinely all-in, triumphant celebration. A special midweek treat this year was the post-prandial amble around Bruce Munro’s Trail of Lights exhibition on the banks of the Murray River—a fittingly soothing, spiritual and meditative experience.

The people infused with this enlightenment undoubtedly leave Mildura fit to achieve greater things and light a fuse under others. In a more immediately tangible sense, AAVWS also unearths a lot of wines that will give people enjoyment—and, who knows, may even lead them to see the world a little differently.

This is a national show, run to the same strict standards of integrity and excellence as the best wine competitions in Australia. The criteria for medal-winning wines are no different: clean, expressive wines with balance, length, intensity and complexity. The numbers appear generous—84 golds, 145 silvers and 286 bronze medals were awarded—and there are countless wines worth seeking out.

Due to the nature of the show, which features four panels comprising a panel chair, two judges and an associate judge, a single panel chair might hope to blind-taste only about a third of all entrants. All judges see the trophy contenders blind when the winners are decided, and there is a chance to taste the wines unmasked at the Exhibitors’ Tasting on the final day.

There are several wines I would recommend, and the weighting of these selections is inevitably influenced by what I saw first-hand during the judging. Those on other panels would have uncovered a host of others. What follows is an assortment of wines I wanted to bring to your attention, along with a handful from three of my fellow judges: Melissa Moore (critic at The Real Review), freelance writer Cass Charlick (Decanter, etc.) and winemaker Pat Underwood (Patrick Underwood/Little Reddie).

I hope these picks—noting their idiosyncratic charms and often superb value—might inspire you to check them out and join us in looking for joy in the Australian wine scene.

A splash of recommended wines from AAVWS 2025

2017 Oliver’s Taranga ‘The Hunt for Mrs Oliver’ Méthode Traditionnelle Fiano McLaren Vale $90

The sparkling class has a reputation for being uneven, but it doesn’t have to be that way. The trophy for Best Sparkling Wine went to this ambitious wine. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Toasty, confident nose with zesty pear, stone fruit and almond tones. Round, soft, compelling, excellent balance and persistence. Very good, fresh carry to this wine; convincing and smile-inducing fizz. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Lenton Brae ‘In Good Hands’ Chenin Blanc Margaret River $36

This topped the Chenin Blanc class, which featured one other gold but a strong field of medallists. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Appealing bright white citrus blossom and white peach aromas on the nose. The palate is silky and textural with lees contact. The chalky acidity drives the energy in this wine and then has a complex savoury phenolic/tannin grip to finish that really entices you to take another sip. Melissa Moore, AAVWS judge

2025 David Hook Viognier Hunter Valley Not yet released [previous vintage was $35]

In the Semillon and Shiraz heartland of Hunter Valley, David Hook is pushing boundaries with a host of alternative varieties. I really enjoyed this rendition. Judges’ score: Gold medal

Attractive peach blossom and almond skin on the nose, leading onto a palate that has a stony reserve and subtle creaminess, very clean, pure fruit intensity, finishing with silky flow and a pleasant bitter grip. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2023 Soumah ‘Equilibrio’ Viognier Yarra Valley $92

Viognier is one of those varieties that seems traditional but has a fringe presence, as well as a polarising reputation. It was perhaps a surprise to come out with two strong golds, albeit in two styles. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Floral, almond blossom, stone fruit, ginger, varietal nose with a touch of smoky reduction and nougat oak. It all translates onto a complex and energetic palate that works well with fruit weight, kernel bitterness that seems correct on the substantial finish, which has real vibrancy. A Viognier that really goes for it and hits the mark. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2025 Hugo Grenache Gris McLaren Vale $30

Grenache Noir is persona non grata at the show—it might be only 1% of the Aussie vineyard right now, but it’s been a significant part of the vineyard makeup before and is kicking goals in the mainstream. Grenache Blanc has its own little class, while this pink-skinned mutation is lumped in with Other White French Varietal wines, where its low-key charm appealed. Quite a few Aussies are playing with these “white” Grenache variants and there will be exciting wines ahead. Here’s a tidy one to get you going. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Nettle, grass, apple blossom, tonic, midweight, clean palate; a little low-key and easy to overlook, but it develops a nice round, white-peach density and chew. Interesting finish, Grüner-like with its pith, spice and sneaking length. Smart little wine. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2019 Crittenden Estate Cri de Coeur Savagnin ‘Sous Voile’ Mornington Peninsula $95

This wine was one of two golds in the Other White French Varietal class. More significantly, Crittenden picked up the Wine of Provenance trophy for this excellent flor-aged Savagnin, with an entry comprising the 2011, 2013 and 2020 renditions. (The 2013 was one of my favourite wines of the week.) Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Medium gold in colour, with caramelised almonds, brine and the aldehydic stuff, preserved lemon, apple skins. The core of the palate is very good, intriguing, satisfying and long-lasting, with honey, marmalade and a kind of salty creaminess, weird though that sounds. Such an enticing, engaging and complete wine. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Hahndorf Hill ‘Gru’ Grüner Veltliner Adelaide Hills $33

This is one of the last wines to be realised by Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson, who’d been at the Hahndorf Hill helm since 2002 and sold it to Wirra Wirra earlier this year. A hugely popular winner of the Dr Rod Bonfiglioli Best Wine of Show, having spurred the Adelaide Hills to make Austria’s signature white grape its own. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Semi-aromatic with blossom, green fruit and earthy, sweetly spiced apple and herb. Balance of fruit and savouriness draws you in and spreads evenly across the palate, building in spice and finishing zesty and pithy. Lovely, demure flow and length. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2025 Artwine ‘Ti Amo’ Arneis Adelaide Hills $36

This Piemontese grape is a difficult one to get right, as I understand it—or at least it can be hard to find charm and balance. This was the sole gold in its class, but not the only one that made a fine drink. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Flinty, steely, aromatic, poised and serious. The palate has delineated pome and stone fruit and acidity driving well-shaped length, with almond meal interest and a touch of grip. An accomplished and moreish example of Arneis. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Billy Button ‘The Versatile’ Vermentino Alpine Valleys $32

Vermentino is a not insignificant category in the alternative scene, usually making crisp, drink-young wines with zesty citric appeal. The bulk of entries were in the 2025 class, which found three golds, but this wine was sole gold in the 2024 and older class, eventually eclipsing the younger wines in a panel chair taste off. I have to admit its subtler charms slipped under my radar at first, but it really grew on me. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Creamy nose with white blossoms and green-edged fruit, but not underripe. A quite zesty entry, but then a slightly more textural, lower-toned feel to the mid-palate, where a phenolic frame and fine acid line take over with a good fill of fruit weight. Delicately floral finish with a chalky feel and pleasant citrus pith bitterness, with a very clean, mouthwatering moreishness. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Tonon Fiano Perth Hills $45

The 2025 Fiano wines were split over two panels, as the class was so large. The 2025 classes yielded nine golds from scattered regions, so check out wines by In Praise of Shadows, Sherrah, Green Door, Main & Cherry, First Ridge, d’Arenberg, Gudilly, Maxwell Wines and Foxeys Hangout. This was the sole gold in the 2024 and older class. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Stony green fruit and honey on the nose. Spice, body and cling on the palate, which has juicy stone fruit, melon and spiced pear. Clean finish with pithy, zesty, briny persistence. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Saffron Gramophone Malbec Northeast Victoria $35

The Malbec class looked a lot less oaky Bordeaux-like here than in a traditional show, with more of the grape’s pure fruit and vibrancy à la Loire on show. This was one of two golds. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Appealingly bright nose of zesty blackcurrant, blackberry and spice. Nice purity, plenty of tannin build with graphite and pepperiness to keep the fruit in check. Good length and flow on powdering tannins, with a violet floral comeback. Lovely wine. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Briar Ridge Limited Release Malbec Limestone Coast $40

This wine topped its class and went on to win Best Red French Variety Wine. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Lovely colour and fresh foresty fragrance of red and blackcurrant, berries, mint and tobacco. Juiciness and fruit intensity on the palate with leafy and aniseed interest. Sustained, balanced finish without oak in the way. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Bloomfield Mencía Limestone Coast $38

Judging this class over the past couple of years leaves me very excited about the future for Mencía in Australia, which I believe can succeed in several areas. This wine topped its class and was awarded Chief of Judges Wine to Watch by Leanne Altmann, who found she couldn’t stop sipping it during the callbacks. Judges’ Score: Gold medal.

Bright colour, quite floral, gentle and pure, exotic spice and pepper. Quite a lot of tannin, but good purity and mineral, effortless flow. Liquorice and graphite on a delightfully upbeat finish. Lovely wine. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2025 Bondar Monastrell McLaren Vale Not yet released [previous vintage was $35]

This won the Trophy for Best Red Iberian Variety Wine. Judges’ score: Gold

This was a wine I kept coming back to. It may only hint at the earthier, meatier dark side of Monastrell, but those elements are there to complement a disarming array of charms. Fragrant with blue flowers and purple berries, it’s ripe yet fresh, featuring delicious blue and dark fruits wrapped in lovely, grainy tannins with good bounce and carry. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Wangolina A-Series Dolcetto Limestone Coast $30

This was one of two Dolcetto wines to pick up a gold in the Other Red Italian Varietal class, the other being an excellent 2023 under the Vino Intrepido label from Macedon Ranges grapes. Dolcetto is an underrated variety, if you ask me. In the right place, and in the hands of people who care, it can make excellent-value, versatile reds that want for nothing—except greatness, but who cares? Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Lovely bright purple, peppery blue and red fruit, herbs, punchy tannin, good pure-fruit intensity. Violets and liquorice on the finish. Framing tannins and driving acid. Simply love this wine. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2024 Sentio Black Springs Nebbiolo Beechworth $75

This came out on top in the Nebbiolo glamour class, which doesn’t yet receive as many entries as it might for this exciting variety. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

Black cherry, plum, aromas, very nice grip, tannin moving very well from front to back. A little bit sweet. Nice. This wine had a beautiful flow. The tannins encompassed the fruit and drew the wine long on the palate. A clear top wine of the class on callbacks and an excellent example of top Australian/Victorian/Beechworth Nebbiolo. Pat Underwood, AAVWS judge

2025 Tempus Two ‘Copper’ Teroldego Murray Darling $35

This year’s win made it two in a row as Best Murray Darling Region Wine for this tasty red. Tempus Two is a brand of Australian Vintage, a major sponsor of the show, which has fed a lot of information back into the alternative varieties scene while possessing the kind of market clout that gets these wines in front of a broad base of consumers at friendly prices. This wine was tasted without our knowledge of the grape in the Other Red Italian Varieties class. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

This is a smart wine again. Lovely vibrant purple, with convincing aromas of blue flowers, blueberry, boysenberry and pepperiness. The palate has good intensity and purposeful, grapey tannins to frame it. There is a slurpiness to the palate that almost slips into simplicity, but this lasts and feels fresh and energetic. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2023 Coriole Sandalwood Sangiovese McLaren Vale $65

Sangiovese was the grape that got this whole show rolling at the turn of the millennium and is always one of the biggest red classes. This was the only gold medal in the 2023 and older class; five golds were awarded in the 2024 class, so lots to look forward to on that front. Judges’ score: Gold.

Aromas of red berries and baked cherry pie with vanilla cream, forest mushrooms, light cedary oak notes and a hint of smoke. There’s palate intensity and a balance between fruit weight, chalky acidity and grippy tannins. I love the structure of this wine and the fact that it’s showing primary, secondary and tertiary aroma complexity. Much to enjoy now, but will repay a few more years in bottle. Melissa Moore, AAVWS Judge

2024 Wangolina A-Series Aglianico Limestone Coast $30

This topped the smallish Aglianico class, where it was one of two golds. Aglianico is undoubtedly a grape with exciting quality potential, and pockets of Australia appear to be well-suited to accommodate it. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

The whole package—a stop-you-in-your-tracks wine. Abundant perfume, oodles of purple fruit, salted plum spice, shades of spice, and a stony freshness. The energy just jumped from the glass and lingered well after the wine left the mouth. Full of character, freshness, elegance and damn delicious. One of the alternative varieties I’m most excited about for the future of Aussie wine. Cassandra Charlick, AAVWS Judge

2024 Orbis Nero d’Avola McLaren Vale Not yet released (previous vintage $40)

This wine won the trophy for Best Red Italian Variety Wine. I tasted it blind in a taste-off between two classes (2025s, and 2024s and older), and again in the trophy judging. Judges’ score: Gold.

Immediately appealing on the nose—cranberries, blackberries, peppery spice and lift from a suggestion of oak. Delightful from the off in the mouth with good purity and flow, plummy with some tangy fruit and savoury shades. Nicely composed and assured; upbeat in its deliciousness. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

2025 Oliver’s Taranga ‘Brioni’s Blend’ McLaren Vale $36

This won the trophy for Best Blend and has a good thing going. The previous year, it was the top-scoring red blend, pipped to the 2024 trophy by a white Rhône blend from the Barossa. Australian blends still seem to be a tough sell, but wines like this demonstrate just how complex and easily enjoyable they can be. Judges’ score: Gold medal.

70% Touriga Nacional, 26% Monastrell and 4% Mencía. Smells good to drink, with a good spectrum of flowers and berries on the nose with spice. Fresh, vibrant fruit marries peppery crunch on the palate. Mouth perfume wafts and expands, dusty tannins. The drying finish stays fresh and is in keeping. Ed Merrison, Vininspo!

NV Crittenden Estate Cri De Coeur Macvin #6 Mornington Peninsula $95

This style of vin de liqueur is extremely rare in Australia. Hailing from the Jura region of France, it’s made by adding grape marc brandy to partially fermented grape must. This was an entrant in the tiny, but by all accounts, excellent, fortified wine class. Judges’ score: Silver.

I haven’t been able to stop thinking about the fortifieds. There were three entries, and all of them could really have been gold, but one slipped in with silver. I can’t get this one out of my mind.

Shades of umami, salt-kissed, and with a sweetness that hums along and a succulence that pulls me back in again and again. Think caramelised miso meets preserved lemon pith. I’m ordering some for summer drinking and for the “what’s that wine?” factor when friends come round. Cassandra Charlick, AAVWS Judge